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如何判断西服定做档次的高低

时间:2013-12-21 05:50:50 来源:依兰琳卡服装有限公司


北京定制西服时,如何判断西装档次的高低,一般要从面料、做工、版型三个方面看,下面我们就来看一下详细的介绍:

一、面料:面料的好坏决定了一件西服的档次,当然我们都知道做工非常重要,但是北京订做西服的高档面料才会去配套高手工,而便宜的面料也自然会选择低档手工,面料档次依次是——纯天然毛丝织物(羊绒,超细羊毛,中国绢丝,羊驼毛,海马毛等)—普通纯羊毛-毛涤混纺-棉-棉涤混纺-涤;

二、做工:这是重中之重,因为手工是艺术活,个个细节追求无限接近完美,可以从手工锁扣眼看出手工的精细度,当然机器锁的扣眼非常精美,但高级工艺师锁的扣眼几乎和机器锁的没有什么差别,看的出是手工锁的扣眼并不代表其差,只是没有那么完美,另外就是胸衬,这是区分大师和师傅的标志性地方,胸衬用纯手工将马尾毛一根一根地耐心地穿入面布背面,但要做到前片不能穿破或露纱线,并且不能有丝毫弯曲和不顺的地方,因为好面料都是超细纤维,极细微的问题都会在面布前面看出来。这可不仅仅是耐心就能做到的,是艺术。做工档次高低分为:全手工-半手工-意大利360道工序粘合衬-180道工序粘合衬,当然了一些小厂或为了节省成本的品牌在做成衣后不定型处理,这种做工是差的。

三、版型:目前有英版,意版,美版和日版西服,所谓的韩版只是在日版基础上修改的,版型超接近人体工程学的超高档,因为其设计要更完美才能大范围适合消费者,越宽松的衣服当然是能穿上身的人越多,其库存量就会越少,但是当今时代已经不过变化了,更合身的衣服才更消的快,所以修身合体的版型就需要花更多的人力和物力去开发调研,其成本也就更高,当然其衣服就更高档了。

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